Saturday, January 31, 2009

Cauls, Bourrelets, and Hennins, Oh My!

When I was five, I loved the 1965 version of Rodgers and Hammerstein's Cinderlla. I wore that Beta Max out. I even got in trouble in Kindergarten for singing the catchy "Impossible" and had to sit in the center of the square for the remainder of the class.
In this version of Cinderella, the ugly stepsisters and evil stepmother wear a variety of 15th Century headresses. Depicted below are three varieties of a bourrelet. A bourrelet is a padded roll similar to a crown that is worn on top of the head, covering all traces of the hairline. The evil stepmother's headdress (back row, left) appears to be a caul plus bourrelet variety. A caul is a netting that covers the head.

The stepsister on the right (not the one who uses unicorn oil to prevent her knees from squeaking at the ball, by the way) is wearing a bourrelet/hennin hybrid. Hollywood always takes poetic license when it comes to women's historic dress. In this case, they created this hybrid in order to distinguish the mother and her daughters from each other. Of course our heroine, Cinderella, just wears a rag since she's cleaning all the time or a crown at the end, showing her hair and making her more attractive than her sisters.
A hennin was typically one tall point and is what most of us conjure mentally when we think of a princess' hat. The hennin could also be flat. Both were typically worn with veils. Hennins were approximately 12-18 inches tall. Can you imagine walking around with that on your head? No, thank you!

If I were a student and had to write a fashion history paper, a good idea might be to compare the styles of clothing in various versions of Cinderella and try to place them in a certain time period.
And for those of you that have never seen this version of Cinderella, I strongly advise you to. But don't get the version with Brandy and Whitney. The music is there but the charm is lacking in my opinion.

Sunday, January 18, 2009


My first lesson is on a subject I love very much. A gigot (ghe-go’) is a type of sleeve that is also known as a leg-of-mutton. It looks exactly like you think it would. The fabric is very full at the shoulder and decreases in fullness at a fitted wrist.

A sister of the gigot is the demi-gigot which is full only from the shoulder to the elbow and then fitted from the elbow to the wrist. This style is not as appealing to me likely due to the lack of food in its name.

The leg-of-mutton sleeve was popular in women’s fashion from the Romantic period (1820 - 1850) up until the 1890’s. In the Edwardian period that followed, women’s sleeves shifted in the opposite direction. Sleeves were now fitted at the shoulder and grew wider towards the elbow. A good example of this style is the kimono sleeve.


Currently, I have a sweater in my closet whose sleeves look very much like a gigot. This could also be due to the sweater being an extra large and I am a small since its made by Candies and they aren’t known for their hip-ness. Either way, it gives the same effect and this is why I bought it (okay and it was only 8 dollars). Sorry I don’t have a picture of this for you right now.

Another modern example of the leg-of-mutton was modeled by the always fashion conscious Kelly Wearstler who judges on Top Design. Kelly put her own spin on a gigot blouse in Season 1 by pairing it was a nice plaid skirt and hair that doesn’t belong to any time period.


As much as I hate to even write her name, Kenley from Project Runway designed a dress for the Astrology challenge in Season 5 that clearly had hyper-gigot sleeves. The point of the challenge was to design an outfit that represented the astrological signs in an avant garde manner. Interestingly, Kenely was called out by Michael Kors for ripping of Victor and Rolf and Balenciaga in this challenge. She defened the outfit up and down saying she isn’t a thief (heck, she doesn’t even watch the runway shows) and swore it was avant garde. I know I didn’t take French but avant garde typically refers to something that is innovative; something we have never seen before. And as you can see, Kenley is not only a rip-off but also a good fashion history student so that’s at least one positive thing about her! Thanks and I hope you enjoyed your first lesson!


For this blog and all future blogs, I’ll be consulting “Survey of Historic Costume” by Phyllis Tortora and Keith Eubank. Thanks guys!